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Author Topic: Expanse  (Read 2756 times)

jinx

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Expanse
« on: January 03, 2017, 07:56:15 AM »
                   

  If some how you missed reading the hypercube build  :o  http://www.robotrebels.org/index.php?topic=617.0  its been a belting introduction to a corexy machine and a worthy upgrade for the Prusa mendel I2 in respect to speeds, BUT the Z height was a draw back for me as I already had 170 mm Z on the I2 with a bowden setup.
       So after some researching reading more reading, come to the conclusion theirs tons of option for the Z from the original design single Z, dual Z like the smartcore upgrade http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1425869  or triple even quad linear guides connected by belt.

   lots of option looking through open beam, thingiverse I changed my goal from a daul Z axis to a frame that compatible with all option without straying far from the original cube design. and doesnt cost much more  starting out,, it becomes a costly if its an upgrade to an already cube with postage! so get it from the start have faith in jinx. >:D



 additional vitamin required are extra M5x8mm bolts, Sadly expanse aint  meant to be completed its a testbed/playground to tinker with and should the M8 on the Z axis prove insufficient, there a ready made solution for 10mm smooth bars http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1950819

  If you have the right leadscrew their be no need for these options but being a rebel and making do with what I have at hand 250 mm and loosing around 100 mm due to the leadscrew passing above the gantry " see option A", though dropping the leadscrew support below the gantry expanse near enough makes use of the 250 mm for printing.



current Z setup which make use of a spare 250 mm lead screw "still waiting on the 300mm". I've  Attached the lead support to the  rear bracing for now.



    This only works because am using volcano hotend, if you using the V6 and unfortunate  to only have a n 250 mm lead screw  then you change things around  drop the brace  and install the motor on that move the lead screw support to the top of the frame.

 the final single Z using a  300mm T8x2 trapeziodal screw gives a printable 200 mm on the Z axis



   Taking a break from the Z axis seems to preforms well in the few test so far. settled on the single axis   using a T8x2 Trapezoidal Rod, coupled with a DRV2885 in 32 step mode  "gotta say it been one of my better choices, the nut aint as loose as the leadscrews. " am thinking it's about the best upgrade to give a printer without going 32 bit".


BB tronics :
    THE RUMBA http://www.robotrebels.org/index.php?topic=560.0 developing a little love and trust with this board. easy to wire up to with the green screw terminals, the auto fan off feature a blast easy to forget the printer switched on. 
 
 

     
        taken a side step on my to a dual hotend and installed a direct extruder on the carriage my curious than anything else to see if its works. first 8 hrs been no problems at all.
   
   


     I really liked the direct drive setup only thing to report  is the  lukewarm nature of the pancake stepper. the tronics RUMBA proven to be reliable " no meltdown so far" with the additional fan cutt off easy to forget the printer switched on.

   the nature of expanse refits becoming a regular occurrence  but this one is worthy of a note  going back to the Axis and motion, now there nothing wrong with lm8uu bearing and smooth bars on the hypercube.   I was introduced to these little gems MGN12 H linear rails while building the mini Kossel, and personally there the greatest thing since butterscotch! when I say the carriages glides 'like it sliding on air with a whisper of motion, Once the prices start coming down "will transform liner motion in 3DP.
                   

    I knew early on I was use these  on the z axis at some point and with the current design of the brackets I've lost a little on the Y axis due in part to the rear bracing  on the frame and with that holding the lead screw support, it wasn't in the plans to remove so I extended the bracket just enough!".  so far the axis Z been a solid improvement in terms of  frame rigidity,speed and noise." once you start using these going back to traditional bearing just grinding metal"

 so a day and night with sketchup:

         

  now there's two very different types the genuine linear rail is made of hardened high carbon steel, a cap on the carriage to allow easy greasing of the ball bearing. the  china made dont have those cap and uses Stainless Steel Linear Rail still not an issue, what is and demonstrated in the video below
 
   

it seems to be tread with ali kossel sales and reported by varies people, no its possible to remove a couple ball bearing and it run smoother.  its possible to have a crappy flat ball bearing  in the carriage  personally dont rush this and buy one at a time if its crap send it back!

    first test:




links:

 HC300: dual Z axis
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2517628/#comments







 
« Last Edit: November 05, 2017, 04:46:41 AM by jinx »
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