Build ProcessI kit I purchased came with a lot of nuts and bolts but the nuts and bolts were the wrong size.

$T2eC16Z,!zoE9s5ngNEvBRfNMJ3)w!--60_12.JPG (32.31 kB . 500x500 - viewed 834 times)My parts looked a lot like the parts Badji used. (The photo below was borrowed from Bajdi's page.)

hexapod-chassis-kit.jpg (31.8 kB . 500x333 - viewed 1266 times)IIRC, the kit Bajdi purchased didn't include the metal servo horns or the flanged ball bearings. My kit included these items but there wasn't any information on eBay about these parts. I just got lucky they were included. If it's possible, I suggest finding a seller which includes these parts. These parts are available from other sources.
The kit didn't include any instructions but from looking at pictures, I could kind of figure out how things were supposed to fit together. While I don't consider this post complete instructions on how to build these hexapod kits, hopefully the photos will provide some hints to anyone interested.
Remember to build three left and three right legs. The six legs shouldn't all be the same. Three are the mirror image of the other three.
Here are the parts I used to instal the flanged bearing.

FlangedBearingMount140920a.jpg (67.88 kB . 684x444 - viewed 863 times)I used a washer prior to adding the bearing.

FlangedBearingMount140920b.jpg (78.08 kB . 783x477 - viewed 1043 times)I used two nuts to hold keep the bearing in place.

FlangedBearingMount140920c.jpg (53.71 kB . 553x397 - viewed 850 times)
FlangedBearingMount140920d.jpg (101.73 kB . 622x527 - viewed 858 times)
FlangedBearingMount140920e.jpg (120.33 kB . 694x566 - viewed 850 times)
FlangedBearingMount140920f.jpg (113.28 kB . 530x542 - viewed 834 times)Gordon McComb suggested I use washers with nylon inserts instead of two nuts. If I were to build something like this again, I'd likely take Gordon't advice and use nuts with nylon inserts.
The second bracket of the leg needs to be attached to this bracket with the flanged bearing. The machine screws need to be the just the right length to pass through the holes in the two brackets but not so long as to interfere with servos used in the brackets. I think these machine screws are 6mm long. IIRC, there isn't room for a washer.

FlangedBearingMount140920g.jpg (72.23 kB . 624x411 - viewed 856 times)Here are a couple of pictures of these two brackets joined together.

FlangedBearingMount140920h.jpg (72.66 kB . 533x473 - viewed 834 times)
FlangedBearingMount140920i.jpg (81.47 kB . 479x497 - viewed 841 times)This next photo shows the brackets after the servos have been added. As you can see, there's not much room to spare.

FlangedBearingMount140920j.jpg (163.75 kB . 743x584 - viewed 849 times)Here's a picture showing the leg attached to the frame. My kit included three long standoffs. Two of these standoffs are visible in the photo. I think it would probably be wise to use four standoffs instead of three. The dimensions of the brackets and the servos will determine how much space there is between the top and bottom frame plates. The standoffs were just a bit too short of span this space so I added a few washers to make up for the gap between the standoff and frame.

HalloweenHex140920b.jpg (216.59 kB . 912x684 - viewed 843 times)Here are a few pictures of the completed frame with the legs attached. I used a Dr. Pepper can to provide scale.

HalloweenHex140920c.jpg (166.11 kB . 884x536 - viewed 818 times)
HalloweenHex140920d.jpg (141.44 kB . 741x544 - viewed 834 times)
HalloweenHex140920a.jpg (196.53 kB . 786x595 - viewed 927 times)With the hardware from ebay put together, I could start figuring out how I was going to get control signals and power to all those servos. This part of the build will depend a lot on what sort of controller is being used. While there are likely lots of "right" ways to wire up a hexapod, I think there are even more "wrong" ways to do so.
I had originally planned on making my own PCB to use as a controller for this robot. Unfortunately I had a major mistake on the board and it ended up being pretty useless for this application.
Last year while building this robot, Radio Shack was clearing out a lot of their inventory and many people were able to find Propeller QuickStart boards for very low prices. I didn't find any of these inexpensive QuickStart boards myself but I had a pretty good supply of QuickStart boards from back when they were sold for $20. I thought I'd use a
QuickStart board to show others, who had one, how useful they could be.
If any of you are interested in trying out the Propeller, the
Propeller Project Board is probably the best bang for the buck right now.
I had previously tried several methods of adding servos to a QuickStart board. Here's a board I made from perf board for adding servos to a QuickStart board.

ServoExtension140925a.jpg (129.39 kB . 723x472 - viewed 840 times)
ServoExtension140925b.jpg (172.09 kB . 710x699 - viewed 834 times)I think I used the boards above with my
Popsicle stick hexapod. I think I'm using the same QuickStart board in this robot as I had used in the Popsicle stick robot. The ribbon cable in used in the above board wasn't long enough for my needs with this Halloween Hex so I made a few more boards.

ServoExtension141008b.jpg (104.57 kB . 490x537 - viewed 839 times)
ServoExtension141008a.jpg (159.82 kB . 780x560 - viewed 827 times)I had these three boards made at OSHPark. Each board could connect to ten servos. I used two of these boards on this hexapod.
I like using these IDCs (insulation displacement connector) when possible since they're so easy to add. I could use solid rows of male headers when using the IDCs. There had to be gaps in the pins to allow room for the extra plastic around the female sockets. I used a small piece of perfboard to add male connectors to the I/O pins numbered P10 through P13. These pins were used to control the LED matrices used for the eyes and one of the four pan/tilt servos.

HexTop151010a.jpg (162.88 kB . 573x595 - viewed 4520 times)Here's a closeup of the small perfboard.

HexTop151010b.jpg (194.86 kB . 678x441 - viewed 814 times)I used some Polymorph to make the bottom sides of the small servo adapters nice and smooth and added Command Strips (kind of like Velcro) to both the bottom of the small PCBs and to the ePVC platform.
I'd heard a bunch of horror stories about voltage regulators burning out from attempting to power these sorts of hexapods. I didn't want suffer similar frustrations of servos not receiving enough power so I used a two beefy regulators. I don't know if both regulators are needed of not. I should probably experiment and see how well the robot works with just one regulator but for now, I'm using both regulators.
Here are a couple of pictures showing this top platform with the gimbals for the eyes added.

HexTop141030a.jpg (150.53 kB . 752x637 - viewed 1106 times)
HexTop141030b.jpg (212.75 kB . 843x630 - viewed 800 times)