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Author Topic: MKS Gen L 1.0  (Read 102103 times)

KingBeetle

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Re: MKS Gen L 1.0
« Reply #15 on: May 25, 2018, 04:05:59 AM »
Thanks for the welcome and the quick response!

Quote
nice little board  for a budget build, I cant  really complain about  the board although am not having much success so far with proximity switches...
When you say proximity switches, are you referring to actual physical switches like the 3D Touch, or inductive/capacitive sensors?  Regardless, what sort of issues are you having?

Quote
as for 24V think you be the first. most here are 12v so some of us be interested to see how that works out for you.
The major factor in my decision to go with 24V was the extra degree of safety when powering the heated bed (half the current for the same load at 12V) and the potential to avoid skipped steps at higher speeds. 

My build is extremely low budget and I have purchased the absolute cheapest steppers I could find on AliExpress that still claimed to meet the minimum RepRap specs.  I'm hoping that by using 24V I can assure myself a little wider margin for error and perhaps make up for the potentially optimistic specs on the steppers.

I have kind of applied the same logic to the power supply - I figure if I purchase a PSU rated at 360W and it's only capable (or safe!) supporting loads up to about 250W, I have a safety margin built in.

I would really like to avoid burning down my house if I can.  ;)
Which actually reminds me - You made mention in your review of the board that you were concerned about the lack of fuses - Certainly there is SOME sort of short protection on the board?





jinx

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Re: MKS Gen L 1.0
« Reply #16 on: May 25, 2018, 05:00:38 AM »
   
 am not completely sure but i do think those two little white boxes are SMD fuses, if they are it would have been nice to been remover-able,,,

dont worry to much about burning the house down!!. (ALWAYS >:D FEAR IT)   two most common errors that lead to fire  are setting a bad PID to the heaters or poor wiring connections.

              As for the switches yea inductive/capacitive sensors?  I suspect the onboard 12V source aint grounded to the circuit? A vulcan guess so far... OR there a onboard resistor issue that came over from the mks gen series. seen work around for the mks gen board on youtube ( just aint keen  taking an iron too the board just yet and the mechanical switches work just fine.
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KingBeetle

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Re: MKS Gen L 1.0
« Reply #17 on: May 25, 2018, 12:49:36 PM »
I ordered one of these 5V inductive sensors a couple of weeks ago to play with; I haven't received it yet.  My printed build is still a good month away from being complete, so I won't be able to test it out until then, but I will certainly let everyone know how well it works out.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/HOT-1pcs-M8-2mm-Sensing-Inductive-Proximity-Sensor-Switch-NPN-Work-Voltage-5V-DC-Special-For/32856771596.html

BobP

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Re: MKS Gen L 1.0
« Reply #18 on: June 11, 2018, 09:38:18 PM »
Jinx, I am using the Gen-L with a proximity probe. Works OK. Note that the MKS Gen-L has fixed, 1K, pullup resistors on the "signal" lines for all of the endstop switches. Even if you disable pullups within Marlin, the resistors on the board will remain active unless you physically remove them. I removed pullup R3. This is for the Z-min endstop. Maybe this info will help?

jinx

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Re: MKS Gen L 1.0
« Reply #19 on: June 12, 2018, 04:32:40 AM »
     thankyou BobP
          very helpful information, I suspected the cause was a resistor, recall the same issue for another mks board..
 may I quote you in the main posting this info too important for others to get buried

       " Note that the MKS Gen-L has fixed, 1K, pullup resistors on the "signal" lines for all of the endstop switches. Even if you disable pullups within Marlin, the resistors on the board will remain active unless you physically remove them. I removed pullup R3. This is for the Z-min endstop"

    thinking of using the MAX endstops and removing the corresponding resistors, but rather than telling marlin am using the Max endstop and changing config to home too max I simply jig the pins in the pinout folder..... easier said than done pretty sure its the ramps pin that need altering thou
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BobP

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Re: MKS Gen L 1.0
« Reply #20 on: June 16, 2018, 11:56:11 PM »
Sure, do pass on the info. Might save someone else some time troubleshooting.
BTW-In one of your early posts introducing the MKS Gen-L you remarked about not finding the BIG fuses that are so dominant on the RAMPS shield. The Gen-L does indeed have two fuses but they are tiny, surface mount units located just behind the power input connector. I think if they blow they will have to be replaced...not an easy task in my opinion but doable.
Thanks for introducing the MKS Gen-L to me. I like the form factor and the "all-in-one" layout.

BobP

jinx

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Re: MKS Gen L 1.0
« Reply #21 on: June 18, 2018, 04:10:01 AM »
Quote
The Gen-L does indeed have two fuses but they are tiny, surface mount units located just behind the power input connector.
it feels good to get confirmation  :D... suspected those, one of a few cons with the board, I've seen on a few other boards where they held in place via a casing (made them easily replaceable).   
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MEgg

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Re: MKS Gen L 1.0
« Reply #22 on: June 18, 2018, 02:59:16 PM »
I like the fuses of my RADDS:



Old style or car style .  :D
1st project: Dagu 5 Rover + Dagu - 4 Channel DC Motor + Red Back Spider robot controller + Raspberry B+
Chassis + wheels: https://picload.org/image/dggroior/20150831_028.jpg
current: https://www.keepandshare.com/userpics/m/a/r/k/usegg/2016-04/sb/img_3480-79682018.jpg

KingBeetle

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Re: MKS Gen L 1.0
« Reply #23 on: July 14, 2018, 04:05:49 PM »
as for 24V think you be the first.  most here are 12v so some of us be interested to see how that works out for you.

I now have the MKS GEN L 1.0 board up and running on 24V, using a 360W PSU.  Zero issues; everything seems to be working great. 
I am using A4988 stepper drivers, which are rated up to 35V, so no issues there.  At the moment, I am using them "out of the box" - I haven't looked at/verified/touched the current limiting pots.  None of the steppers are skipping steps or overheating (although the Y-axis stepper seems to run a little warmer than the others), so I haven't felt the need.
I am using a 40W 24V heater in the heat block which pulls less than 2A , so the extruder MOSFET isn't struggling at all; The heated bed is being driven via an external MOSFET board, so I can't comment on the bed MOSFET's current carrying capacity, although there again, at 24V the current is half what it would be at 12V, so I can't see it being a problem.
I have two 24V fans, a part cooling fan connected to the JST FAN connector and controllable through M106, and a heat breake cooling fan connected to the 24V JST connector that runs all the time.

I don't know what else to report - It all seems to be working just fine for me.  If anyone has any specific questions regarding using the MKS GEN L 1.0 at 24V, feel free to ask!



jinx

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Re: MKS Gen L 1.0
« Reply #24 on: July 15, 2018, 03:55:57 AM »
Quote
I am using A4988 stepper drivers, which are rated up to 35V, so no issues there.  At the moment, I am using them "out of the box" - I haven't looked at/verified/touched the current limiting pots.  None of the steppers are skipping steps or overheating (although the Y-axis stepper seems to run a little warmer than the others), so I haven't felt the need.
     its well worth calibrating those drivers you may well get away with it for now with short 30-60 min prints, but that Y axis will/may jump up and bite you in the ass on those 5 hr print.
   you read triffid hunters calibration guide and driver guide ?
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terragady

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Re: MKS Gen L 1.0
« Reply #25 on: November 02, 2018, 12:15:09 PM »
Hey, can you tell me how I can connect the sd card reader? I have an LCD without SD card slot, I have seen separate SD slots with 8,9,10 pins cables. Can I just connect it to the another LCD port or AUX?

EDIT: ok got it, SPI card reader connected to corresponding pins on AUX3 :)
« Last Edit: November 02, 2018, 09:48:01 PM by terragady »

Prokktor

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Re: MKS Gen L 1.0
« Reply #26 on: November 27, 2018, 08:35:38 AM »
Hi,

I have a MKS GEN L 1.0 and want to upgrade some stuff.

How many amps can I draw from the FAN port? (24V)
You say the MOSFET is rated 4.5A, does this get reduced because it needs to generate a PWM signal?

Thanks for your time

regards

Martin

jinx

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Re: MKS Gen L 1.0
« Reply #27 on: November 28, 2018, 02:23:50 AM »
Quote
How many amps can I draw from the FAN port? (24V)
You say the MOSFET is rated 4.5A, does this get reduced because it needs to generate a PWM signal?
am not the best person to ask this one, SO take what I say with a pinch of salt!.
 the fets are rated for 4.5A doesnt mean you need to draw that much with a 24v,  as I recall a 24V setup requires less Amps, now PWM works by varying the voltage slightly (you can see this with a multi meter) not the current...
  someone once said current (Amps) bit like a water tap opening and closing when you require it.
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jimmyeao

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Re: MKS Gen L 1.0
« Reply #28 on: January 20, 2019, 12:15:32 PM »
Hi All,
I have an MKS GEN L with some TMC2208s (Wired in UART mode), I upgraded to this when the board in my Ender 3 died - everything working really well apart from PID tuning, I can't get a stable extruder temp (was rock solid on the Creality board). It fluctuates by +-3 degrees. Now when printing PLA @208 it's not too bad, but when I push the temp up to 245 for PETG, it never settles, hence printing never starts.
I have run a PID tune already but it doesn't seem to have improved much after flashing the new values. Is it possible I have a bad board or have I missed something fundamental?

Thanks  :)


printergreg

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Re: MKS Gen L 1.0
« Reply #29 on: January 26, 2019, 04:03:15 PM »
Hi All,
I have an MKS GEN L with some TMC2208s (Wired in UART mode), I upgraded to this when the board in my Ender 3 died - everything working really well apart from PID tuning, I can't get a stable extruder temp (was rock solid on the Creality board). It fluctuates by +-3 degrees. Now when printing PLA @208 it's not too bad, but when I push the temp up to 245 for PETG, it never settles, hence printing never starts.
I have run a PID tune already but it doesn't seem to have improved much after flashing the new values. Is it possible I have a bad board or have I missed something fundamental?

Thanks  :)
I'm in the same boat  :(  Upgraded ender-3 (which was already running Marlin 1.1.9), but I used TMC2130s with SPI and sensorless homing.  I can't get the temperature to be stable in Marlin 1.1.9 or the latest 1.1.x bugfix.  Tested with a thermistor off of an old E3D hotend and same unstable temperature reading.  Confirmed power supply is supplying stead 24V (was 23.9-24 but I tweaked the pot), and also tested w/ 12V power supply from my original prusa i3 mk2.  On 12V the fluctuation was less pronounced, but still temp unstable.  Super frustrating cause everything else is so awesome and silent now  :-\  If anyone has any ideas, I'm all ears!

 

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