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Author Topic: CZ-1 2.0: problems, calibration and printing, part2  (Read 5686 times)

MEgg

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Bridge Testing
« Reply #15 on: May 08, 2017, 04:48:03 PM »
A recent print showed problems when printing bridges, I did try this before and do not remember what I changed.
Tests are here:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:546688
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:124879

Results:




Still a bit of sagging, I had this already better.
« Last Edit: September 02, 2017, 04:58:08 PM by MEgg »
1st project: Dagu 5 Rover + Dagu - 4 Channel DC Motor + Red Back Spider robot controller + Raspberry B+
Chassis + wheels: https://picload.org/image/dggroior/20150831_028.jpg
current: https://www.keepandshare.com/userpics/m/a/r/k/usegg/2016-04/sb/img_3480-79682018.jpg

jinx

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Re: CZ-1 2.0: problems, calibration and printing, part2
« Reply #16 on: May 08, 2017, 05:08:11 PM »
what speed you at ? go faster my first thought
try this one
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:476845  make a not which angle preformed best, then forever on. turn the model in the slicer to get that best result!
« Last Edit: May 08, 2017, 05:15:43 PM by jinx »
I build bots

MEgg

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Changed calibration after long time
« Reply #17 on: December 02, 2017, 12:15:34 PM »
To prevent too much dust in the printer I used this cover, which is a cover fo some outdoor grill:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01C682EPW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

After quite a long time I was trying the printer again.
There was no dust inside so the above cover works.
 :)

When trying the calibration points P0-P5 I realized that the calibration was changed somehow.
As you can see (partly) here the printer has a hexagonal heatbed:


This picture shows my normal setup with Kapton in the middle and blue tape at the right and left:


Here is a schematic showing the calibration points P0-P6 and the screws S1-S6 :


A Bosch Laser meter shows differences at the screws S6 and S2 in height, but the accuracy of this
meter is only +/- 1.5mm.
:-(

Jinx said I should use something like this :
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01H035DRO/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1

I will try to check if the heatbed is level in relation to the actuator.

As Jinx suggested I also tightened the belts here:

and the grub screws are ok already.
« Last Edit: December 03, 2017, 04:31:00 PM by MEgg »
1st project: Dagu 5 Rover + Dagu - 4 Channel DC Motor + Red Back Spider robot controller + Raspberry B+
Chassis + wheels: https://picload.org/image/dggroior/20150831_028.jpg
current: https://www.keepandshare.com/userpics/m/a/r/k/usegg/2016-04/sb/img_3480-79682018.jpg

MEgg

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Re: CZ-1 2.0: problems, calibration and printing, part2
« Reply #18 on: January 14, 2018, 01:09:24 PM »
As far as I remember Jinx said that with a dial indicator one can measure the levelness of the heatbed .

So I bought one of the cheaper ones:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01H035DRO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

with 0.01mm accuracy.

Interior looks cheap:



and mounted it on the actuator:



There is quite some distance between the hotend and the tip of the indicator:




There was a website about how the levelness of the heatbed can be measured with this,
but I cannot find it anymore.
Any pointers?

Edit 21.1.2018: problem with that dial is, that it is too big.
It hits the rods of the X and Y tower when moving to P3.
:-(

I tried the paper method again this time with cold heatbed:
P0 X0,Y0       : Z= 1.69
P1 X-77.94 Y-45: Z= 1.69
P2 X-77.94 Y-45: Z= 1.52
P3 X0 Y90      : Z= 1.48
P4 X0 Y-90     : Z= 1.56
P5 X77.94 Y45  : Z= 1.45
P6 X-77.94 Y45 : Z= 1.58


So my guess is that Screw S1 and S6 are too high and have to be tightened.
I tightenend them a bit:
P0 X0,Y0       : Z= 1.66
P1 X-77.94 Y-45: Z= 1.63
P2 X-77.94 Y-45: Z= 1.51
P3 X0 Y90      : Z= 1.48
P4 X0 Y-90     : Z= 1.54
P5 X77.94 Y45  : Z= 1.43
P6 X-77.94 Y45 : Z= 1.58


So this seems to be the correct way to go.
« Last Edit: January 21, 2018, 01:50:22 PM by MEgg »
1st project: Dagu 5 Rover + Dagu - 4 Channel DC Motor + Red Back Spider robot controller + Raspberry B+
Chassis + wheels: https://picload.org/image/dggroior/20150831_028.jpg
current: https://www.keepandshare.com/userpics/m/a/r/k/usegg/2016-04/sb/img_3480-79682018.jpg

MEgg

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Re: CZ-1 2.0: problems, calibration and printing, part2
« Reply #19 on: January 14, 2018, 06:35:28 PM »
There were some questions about the cooling of the electronic in the base of the printer:

The brown fan at the top was added by me:



The mounts of  the rods work also as a stand:


therefore making an air gap at the bottom.
1st project: Dagu 5 Rover + Dagu - 4 Channel DC Motor + Red Back Spider robot controller + Raspberry B+
Chassis + wheels: https://picload.org/image/dggroior/20150831_028.jpg
current: https://www.keepandshare.com/userpics/m/a/r/k/usegg/2016-04/sb/img_3480-79682018.jpg

MEgg

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3DBenchy boat
« Reply #20 on: May 27, 2018, 02:28:59 PM »
After some time I found time to recalibrate the printer.
My fault: I tightened the screws of the heatbed to hard and at 2 screws the washers were missing which made the nut press into the wood of the base.
This lead to the issue that I described before were the heatbed seemed to be uneven.
A metal ring would probably be better here to fix the heatbed at the bottom.

Anyway, I was able to print the 3D benchy boat: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:763622 :

The skirt was too near to the print:










« Last Edit: May 27, 2018, 02:44:57 PM by MEgg »
1st project: Dagu 5 Rover + Dagu - 4 Channel DC Motor + Red Back Spider robot controller + Raspberry B+
Chassis + wheels: https://picload.org/image/dggroior/20150831_028.jpg
current: https://www.keepandshare.com/userpics/m/a/r/k/usegg/2016-04/sb/img_3480-79682018.jpg

jinx

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Re: CZ-1 2.0: problems, calibration and printing, part2
« Reply #21 on: May 27, 2018, 05:08:52 PM »
 hi meg got few thoughts  but before what
filament brand.
print speed
layer height
Temp
 temp wise print looks molten in places (those peek jheads flows pla well enough around the 180C Mk
 thinking about the box and step in the hull, when the print cooling kicking in..... continued in the SB 
« Last Edit: May 28, 2018, 03:43:40 AM by jinx »
I build bots

MEgg

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Re: CZ-1 2.0: problems, calibration and printing, part2
« Reply #22 on: May 27, 2018, 05:23:38 PM »
hi meg got few thoughts  but before what
filament brand.
print speed
layer height
Temp
 temp wise print looks molten in places (those peek jheads flows pla well enough around the 180C Mk
 thinking about the box and step in the hull, when the print cooling kicking in..... continued in the SB

I think the filament was a black PLA from Honeycomb from the manufacturer:
http://construction-zone.de/produkt/honeycomb-filaments-black-pearl-pla-1-75mm/

I attach the slic3r config that I used and the .../RepetierHost/composition.gcode that seems to be generated by slic3r.
repetierhost says as print speed "100".

« Last Edit: May 27, 2018, 05:51:17 PM by MEgg »
1st project: Dagu 5 Rover + Dagu - 4 Channel DC Motor + Red Back Spider robot controller + Raspberry B+
Chassis + wheels: https://picload.org/image/dggroior/20150831_028.jpg
current: https://www.keepandshare.com/userpics/m/a/r/k/usegg/2016-04/sb/img_3480-79682018.jpg

MEgg

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3DBenchy boat 2nd try
« Reply #23 on: June 02, 2018, 12:56:35 PM »
Printed the 3D benchy boat again and -according to Jinx advice- set the speed from 80mm
down to 60mm.
Repetierhost says that it needs now 2h20m instead of the previous 1h25m.

But the same strange "offset" was on the same place approx at layer 50.
So I guess speed is not the issue.

I looked at the model in Repetierhost, which I always use now under Linux and
found that this offset is visible there:


Although this should not go around the whole model I guess, only in the rear part
of the boat.

There is a document included 3DBenchy_Broschure_3DBenchy.com.pdf.
Most of the measurements shown in there are ok according to my 0.01mm caliper.
Some of these measurements are difficult (e.g. windows).
;-)

Once again I realized that the heatbed needs quite some time to get up to 60°
but it also needs quite some time to cool down again. Altogether the currents setup
has temps (mostly 200/60) quite stable.
Next step will be lowering the temp or using Cura under Windows.

« Last Edit: June 02, 2018, 03:00:55 PM by MEgg »
1st project: Dagu 5 Rover + Dagu - 4 Channel DC Motor + Red Back Spider robot controller + Raspberry B+
Chassis + wheels: https://picload.org/image/dggroior/20150831_028.jpg
current: https://www.keepandshare.com/userpics/m/a/r/k/usegg/2016-04/sb/img_3480-79682018.jpg

tinhead

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Re: CZ-1 2.0: problems, calibration and printing, part2
« Reply #24 on: June 03, 2018, 05:00:04 AM »
Hi Megg,

This looks a lot like Z axis stuck for a layer or two in that area... Now for a non delta that would point to some issue on Z like microstep loss, but this being a delta printer well, firmware issue?

You could try replicating on a cylinder model same height?

TH

MEgg

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3DBenchy on Cura works, sort of
« Reply #25 on: June 03, 2018, 12:13:07 PM »
Printed the boat  with Cura 15.04.6 under Windows (Cura was not compileable on my current
Linux) and the error is not there:


So I guess it is not a mechanical or electrical problem of the printer,
but rather some software problem like slicer or config of the slicer.

The blobs are because the parameters are some default ones from the manufacturer
(esteps = 640) and there are other mistakes with the Cura version.
For some reason that I do not know the print was interrupted, when I minimized the Cura dialog.
Maybe a Cura problem, maybe a Windows problem.
But I do not care, this is Windows and Cura and both of them are not my "great love".
;-)
1st project: Dagu 5 Rover + Dagu - 4 Channel DC Motor + Red Back Spider robot controller + Raspberry B+
Chassis + wheels: https://picload.org/image/dggroior/20150831_028.jpg
current: https://www.keepandshare.com/userpics/m/a/r/k/usegg/2016-04/sb/img_3480-79682018.jpg

MEgg

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Re: CZ-1 2.0: problems, calibration and printing, part2
« Reply #26 on: June 10, 2018, 06:10:53 AM »
Testing other PLA from these guys:
"colorFabb 8719033552593 3D Print filament, red/transparent"
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B014GE90GA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Printed this for making some kind of wall to make borders for the dust cleaning robot:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:65915

The print was ok:



but it was interrupted before finishing.
Communication problem.

I read here:
https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?247,271702
that I have to switch on Pingpong communication in repetier host to avoid this and lower the cache:



« Last Edit: June 10, 2018, 06:34:12 AM by MEgg »
1st project: Dagu 5 Rover + Dagu - 4 Channel DC Motor + Red Back Spider robot controller + Raspberry B+
Chassis + wheels: https://picload.org/image/dggroior/20150831_028.jpg
current: https://www.keepandshare.com/userpics/m/a/r/k/usegg/2016-04/sb/img_3480-79682018.jpg

 

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